Warning – long post!! I realize this is an old post, but for readers looking for DIY tiling advice, I have some recommendations. I also chose a 1″ hexagon for my first tile job. Ignorance is bliss. Here are some things I did and would do differently if I had it to do over again.
The most important thing is to do your homework. Don’t rely on the sales staff in the tile aisle of the big box store to give you the right advice. I cannot stress this enough. I read about 4 months of a great free forum, the John Bridge Tile Forum, and asked a lot of questions (plus you can read all about other people’s mistakes and learn from them). The pros on the John Bridge forum, bless their hearts, are so patient and thorough in answering even the dumbest questions. Use the search function on the site… chances are good that someone has already asked your question. This forum has been my main source of information and I have not been steered wrong.
Often the premium materials the pros use don’t come from Home Depot or Lowe’s, but of course the sales staff at the big box store will sell you what they have. It may or may not be good. Again, the professionals at John Bridge can give you recommendations.
Along these same lines, learn the terms. Thinset is what you use to “glue” the tiles. Grout is what you use to fill gaps. Should you use sanded or unsanded grout? Use the correct size and type of “trowel” for the tiles you are laying to spread your thin layer. Read and follow the directions. If the Thinset needs to be set up in 10 minutes, do it. If using 1″ hex, use the recommended trowel to avoid the thin layer leaking between the tiles. It’s no fun carving it out with a toothpick. Buy the huge yellow sponge to mop up the grout (according to the correct amount of time to allow it to harden). Buy a rubber “float” to force the grout into the joints. Learn to use “tweezers” – just be patient and pinch a little at a time. There should be a manual “turner” for tiles. Practice. (Sorry, there’s probably a more professional term for this.) A decent wet saw is about 25.00 at the big box stores and easy to learn to use. Expect to get wet, but this is essential for making clean cuts. Buy spacers of the right size. None of these tools cost much. I could go on, but the bottom line is that you will need “equipment” to do a professional looking job.
Finally, participate in floor preparation prior to tiling. My biggest mistake and it ruined the whole thing. But it was too late. A carpenter doesn’t necessarily know what to do to prepare a tile floor. I knew this but didn’t catch my carpenter in time and thought if I put in extra screws it would be fine. you SHOULD ADHESE THE CEMENT TILE TO THE FLOOR WITH THE SAME ADHESIVE YOU USE TO BOND THE TILES AND WHILE THE CEMENT TILE IS WET SCREW THE CEMENT TILE TO THE FLOOR. This prevents the floor from moving due to weight and changes in temperature. It doesn’t take much movement to get the grout to continuously crack wherever the sheets join. And it will happen. Ask me how I know. Your only recourse is to periodically remove and replace the grout (often) or remove the tile and cement board and start over. It ruined all my work.
One more thing (I promise), consider using the Schleuter system. This increases costs, but results in damage-free and leak-free operation. John Bridge and the forum moderators believe in the products. You can order Schleuter materials online, and the forum provides an e-book with detailed instructions. I used the system and found it easy to install.
I hope I was helpful. Any GIRL or man can do this right, you just need to educate yourself and use a professional source of information.
After experiencing the tiles, visiting the tile trail will bring you a sense of empowerment and joy. :))))))
