A better way to update bright oak cabinets

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As a professional woodworker who has been in the craft for decades, I know only too well that color and finish trends in cabinetry are a constant target. What was a bomb-digit in the 1990s is now 20^m A significant challenge that these fleeting trends pose is what to do when you are unhappy with the old color and style of cabinets? For example, how do you subdue the look of your bright oak cabinets? Especially controlling the red and orange highlights that are so prevalent these days. The good news is that you can complement both light and dark oak cabinets by creating your own custom stain. It’s easy to do, and very satisfying. And you can do it too without stripping the wood.

Premade stains — whether oil or water-based — come in a variety of colors tagged with creative, if not particularly helpful, names (What color is Colonial Oak?). Colors presented outside the can are helpful but not accurate in every situation. For example, the color of a stain applied to a prefinished surface will look different than the color applied to raw wood. Likewise, the existing color of your light oak cabinets will affect how a particular stain presents.

But the fact is, you’re not limited to predetermined, store-bought colors: you can mix the stains together to get the color you want and that works best for your particular situation. By mixing different colored stains. You can experiment to create a recipe that will give you exactly what you are looking for. One hint I can give you, dark cabinets that were out of style are now coming back in favor. Just saying.

Mixing stains isn’t exactly rocket science, but there are a few rules you need to follow. First just mix like stains. For example oil stains with oil stains. Similarly, I like to stick to the same brand for best results. They will have the same base and the only difference between the pigments is the mixture. There is another detail to be aware of Color wheel. If you remember color wheels from grade school, you may also remember that if you mix the exact opposite spoke colors of the wheel (deep yellow and blue, for example) they will often create a muddy gray. Avoid it. Finally, as you begin mixing your own custom colors, keep an accurate record of how much color you have included in your formula.

You can use a small amount of stain to develop your custom color. For example a tablespoon-worth. Three tablespoons of dark walnut can be converted into two pint cans of dark walnut with one light brown and one pint of light brown. With the formula in hand, test a small area of ​​the cabinetry that you want to restain. If the color won’t work if it clears right away, clean it while still damp with water or mineral spirits, depending on the type of stain. I prefer an oil-based stain (often called glazing) for this job, so mineral spirits are the best option. If it looks okay, let it dry to make sure it’s doing the job you want it to do. Make sure it achieves your goal of removing existing orange or red highlights. If it satisfies all of those data points, you’re ready to move on to the next step—the application.

With your custom formula in hand (expanded enough to cover the entire project) it’s time to prepare the cabinets. Start by cleaning them thoroughly to remove residual buildup from use. like product Savogran TSP Cleaner A good idea. When you have scrubbed them thoroughly, wipe them with a clean cloth saturated with clean water to dry them. Next, remove all the hardware and remove the doors from the cabinet. Finely remove their surface using a synthetic abrasive pad, so that the new stain is applied more evenly. Wipe off the swarf (abraded dust) with a damp cloth. The surfaces are now ready to receive your custom stain.

I like to apply the stain with a paint brush, then brush off the excess stain with a separate dry brush, being careful to leave behind an even, consistent coverage. However you apply the stain and wipe it off, the most important detail is to create even coverage of the stain and color. I like to keep finished doors close at hand when working on comparing them as I go. If you are using an oil stain, allow the stain to cure for at least 24 hours. Then apply at least two thin coats of clear, waterborne polyurethane. I apply it in very thin coats with a foam paint pad. Reattach the hardware (you may want to replace it for a more dramatic upgrade), hang the doors, and you’re done. red and Orange hues of your oak Cabinets are a thing of the past and your kitchen has a fresh, new look.