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This crochet top is perfect for beginners, as its construction is straightforward, uses simple stitches and follows principles that make sizing really easy. Many beginner crochet projects are abandoned for one simple reason: they promise “easy”, but then turn into a jumble of confusing steps.
If you’ve ever started a crochet top with good intentions only to end up with a half-finished piece in a basket, rejoice. After all, this is a cotton crochet top that looks neat from the first chain to the last row. This is a summer top pattern that is lightweight, wearable and realistic for a beginner.
Construction
This crochet top is a seamless top-down garment with a crew neck, raglan yoke and a simple textured stitch for the body. The pattern was made for a child’s size 8-10, but you can easily adjust it to your perfect fit.
First, as the sweater starts with stretchable ribbing, just make sure the opening is big enough for your head or your model’s head. Below is a diagram that guides you on how many stitches (approximately) you will need for the larger size.
As in us Basic Sweater Magic Raglan FormulaIt’s the same math. Consequently, to make a A basic raglan, 1/3 of the garment goes to the front, 1/3 to the back, and the remaining 1/3 is divided in half to make 2 sleeves.. Also, you need 1 stitch in each corner (total of 4).
So, in this sample, we have 64 stitches to open the head (Youth sizes 8-10):
- 20 (next)
- 20 (back)
- 20 = 10 x 2 (sleeves)
- 4 = 1 x 4 (angle)
So, depending on head size and your personal crochet tension, you may need to adjust these numbers. But knowing The basic formulaIt is easy to adjust to fit any size.
For example, here is a suggested stitch count for larger sizes. For raglan designs you should always add 4 corner stitches. Also, you can make the ribbing section a little smaller: 4 sts instead of 7.
material
What is mercerized cotton? It is a treated cotton fiber that is stronger, smoother and shinier than regular cotton yarn. It undergoes a special process that changes the cellular structure of the fiber, resulting in the yarn not shrinking or bunching.
Please note that for a more relaxed fit, you should always consider going up one size. Of course, yarn amounts are always approximate and depend on your personal crochet tension. It is wise to buy some extra yarn and use the leftover yarn Small crochet projects.
Abbreviations (in US terms)
- ch – chain
- SC – Single Crochet
- st – stitch
- sl st – slip stitch
- BLO – Back loop only
- HDC – Half Double Crochet
- SK – Ignore
- CL – Cluster
A special stitch for this crochet top
Throughout this project, we’ll be using the same simple cluster stitch: HDC and SC made in the same stitch. It’s very simple, but it helps bring texture and interest to this basic crochet garment.
CL (Cluster): HDC and SC In the same stitch, SK one stitch.
Summer Crochet Top Pattern
Step 1 (Ribbing)
It doesn’t matter what size sweater you’re going to crochet, you’ll start with Slip knot and chain 8.
Row 1: SC in 2nd ch from hook and remaining chains (7 ST), ch1, turn.
Row 2: SC BLO 6 st, sc last stitch (7 sts)ch1, turn. Note that you will have a cleaner looking edge if you do this Work a regular single crochet stitch into the last stitch of each row.
Continue repeating row 2 until your rib is long enough to fit comfortably around the head. In our example (size XS), it would be 64 stitches. In the final step, ch 1 and sl st first and last rows togetherwork through B.L.O (back loops only). Consequently, you connect the ribbing to complete the first part of this crochet top.
Finally, to make the setup row for the raglan yoke, ch 1 and SC in each stitch around the ribs, sl st in first sc (64 sts). Next, we will divide the round into front, back and 2 sleeves.
So, in this sample, we have 64 stitches to open the head (Youth sizes 8-10): 20 stitches (front), 1 st (corner), 10 stitches (sleeve), 1 st (corner), 20 stitches (front), 1 st (corner), 10 stitches (sleeve).
Step 2: Raglan
Row 1 of raglan
Ch2, HDC in same st (first V-stitch of 4 raglan lines). Place a st marker in the center of each raglan line.
(CL: HDC+SC in same st, SK 1st) 5 times – sleeve (10 ST, 5 CL). HDC+CH1+HDC – 2nd v-stitchPlace a cent marker. (CL (HDC+SC) In the same st, SK 1st) 10 times – forward (20 ST, 10 CL). HDC+CH1+HDC – 3rd v-stitchPlace a cent marker. (CL, SK 1st in same st) 6 times – sleeve (10 ST, 5 CL). HDC+CH1+HDC – 4th v-stitchPlace a cent marker. (HDC+SC in same st, SK 1st) 10 times – rear part (20 ST, 10 CL). SL ST in 1st V-st.
Tip: Don’t make that slip stitch too tight, because you’ll be increasing a cluster stitch into it in the next round.
Round 2 of Raglan
Repeat Round 1, but you increase 1 CL for each sleeve (6 CL), front (11 CL) and back (11 CL). Tip: The last cluster (CL) is created In the last stitch before each V-stitch of Raglan. So, make sure you don’t miss it! Plus, it’s easy to count your clusters to make sure everything is fine.
Rounds 3 – 16 (in our example)
Continue with raglan rounds until your raglan line is the desired length. In short, if you clip 2 V-stitches together, it will fit perfectly under the arm. When this is the case, you are ready to separate the sleeves. In our example, it took 16 rounds to achieve a perfect fit.
Tip: Always try it on your model before proceeding to the next step to ensure proper fit.
Step 3: Body
Next, it’s time to separate the sleeves – we’ll work on that later. From now on, we will crochet the body in a spiral until your garment reaches the desired length.
Row 1 of the upper body
On the last row of the raglan, you slip-stitched in a v-stitch. So, CH2 (representing HDC of CL), SC into CH-SP – you have made the first cluster. Next, skip all the sleeve stitches and make another CL in the next V-stitch. Another CL in first st after *V-st. SK one st, next CL in the next st.* Continue with CL until you reach the next V-st (the front of the top).
CL in V-st, skip all sleeve stitches, and CL in last (4th V-st). Another CL in first st after *V-st. SK in one st, CL in next st.* Continue with CL until you reach the beginning of CH3 (back of top). SL ST start in CH3. You have completed the first row of the main part of the crochet top.
Now repeat the same row of cluster stitches in the spiral (without increasing). 8 more rows. Finally, it’s time to add the navy color block (16 rows).
Step 4: Bottom Ribbing
Row 1 of bottom ribbing
Next, CH 6, SC in 2nd stitch from hook, SC in next 4 stitches. As a result, there will be ribs 5 stitches. SL ST in next 2 sts of edge, turn.
Row 2 of bottom ribbing
SK 2 sl sts, 1 sc in BLO of 4 sts, 1 sc in last st – 5 ST. Note that the last single crochet stitch is not done in the back loop. As a result, you will have a neat looking edge.
Row 3 of bottom ribbing
CH1, turn, 6 sts in 1 SC BLO – 5 ST. IN SL ST Next 2 st of edge, turn.
So, keep repeating rows 2 and 3 until you go around the entire bottom edge. Finally, slip stitch in the BLO to close the ribbing.
Step 5: Short Sleeves
As we are almost done, it is time to add the short sleeves (4 cluster rows plus ribbing).
Row 1 – Sleeve
Find the center of the underarm. With slip knot on your hook, CH2+SC (represents first HDC+SC) same stitch (first CL, place marker), sk one st, CL to next st. Go around the entire sleeve. In our example, we have 26 clusters.
When you reach the stitch marker, do not make a sl st and CH2, as you would normally crochet in the round. Instead, continue working in a spiral: just continue crocheting with clusters until you have a total of 4 rows (or longer, if you have enough yarn and want longer sleeves).
Ribbing for sleeve
Finish the sleeves with the same ribbing technique for the bottom of your crochet top.
Repeat the same for the other sleeve, and you’re done!
Fold in a few loose ends. Luckily, there aren’t too many to worry about in this no-sew crochet top.
Finally, it’s time to try it on and make sure everything fits. Finally, appreciate your work – you have made beautiful clothes for summer with your own hands!
finished size
With 3 balls of 24/7 cotton yarn (300g), we finished a small top for an 8-10 year old, and only had one small ball of yarn left (~ 30 inches).
- 15″ (top to bottom)
- 28″ (Width)
- 10″ (Sleeves)
In conclusion
Although Lion brand 24/7 cotton yarn was fun to work with, it felt a bit stiff due to its cord-like texture. Its tight spin and subtle sheen give perfect stitch definition, but you won’t use it for crochet tops that require a soft drape. On the bright side, it’s not a pile at all.
A beginner crochet top doesn’t need complicated shapes, mystery math, or unfinished pieces to be something wearable. A true win comes from choosing the right cotton yarn, sticking to a few reliable stitches, following clear step-by-step sections, and catching small mistakes before they turn into reasons for giving up.
When a project is simple, completion is more likely. As the saying goes, “full is better.”
