Tiling around the toilet is not easy. Curves and curves provide a challenge for any DIYer. Get it wrong, and you have to break a new tile and start over. Or you could spend forever removing small slivers of tile to get a good fit.
Even if you are Laying floor tilesWhether using wall tiles or peel-and-stick tiles, the principles remain very similar. But the techniques to achieve the curve and fit you need may vary depending on a variety of factors.
Here, I explain the three steps you need to follow and the different methods you can use to get a perfect fit when cutting the tiles around your toilet.
Step One: Marking the Curve
Cutting curves in tile requires precision to ensure a good fit, and that all starts with marking the curves correctly.
These are four tried and tested methods that I have tried and tested.
1. Make a cardboard template
Creating a template is an old-school method, but it works well. However, you need to be patient to get the best results. Stephen Russell, Independent Tailor Ashley Cross Tilingsays, “Use a piece of cardboard to mark and shape the curve. Don’t rush the process. If you do, you may need to start over.”
First, place the tile on the cardboard, mark it with a pencil, and then cut the cardboard with large wallpaper scissors. Alternatively, you can use a sharp steel snap-off knife, such as this one Wolfcraft Metal Snap-Off Blade Knife from Amazon.
Now measure from the edge of the tile you place next to the toilet or object. Starting at one end of the tile, take measurements every 50mm and mark them on the template. This gives you a rough outline of the curve.
Next, make a cut on the template from the edge to remove, beyond the marks you made earlier. Do this every 10 mm. You will now have a set of strands that are flexible. Place the template where the tile is to go and don’t forget the gap for grout if using the stone or ceramic tiles.
Finally, press around the area (I use the end of a pencil) where the template meets the curve to create a crisp crease. Mark the shape with a pencil, select a template and cut along the mark. Place the template in place and check that it matches as expected. If too tight for a bend, trim and check again. When happy, transfer to tile.
An alternative is to use construction paper; The process is similar, but the material is usually a little easier to cut. This method works as a treatment as long as you take your time. And don’t forget about the grout gap.
2. Use the contour gauge
A contour gauge, such as this one Dodowin Contour Gauge Profile Tool from Amazon (which I have), is a quick and easy way to get an accurate curve. Just hold in place and push against the curve. Then transfer to the tile and mark with a pencil.
Contour gauges do not have much depth; Mine is about 70mm. However, you can and use the full length of the gauge (in my case, 25cm) to profile a long curve.
Buy these tools for the best curved tile cut
This contour gauge measures 30cm in length and 13mm in depth, making it a good choice for most floor tiles. A metal lock is included to hold the pattern in place.
Ideal for 4mm to 15mm thick floor and wall tiles. These nippers have a tungsten carbide cutting edge for strength and durability. Coated handles ensure a strong, secure grip.
This tile scribe features a heavy-duty tungsten carbide blade for neat, accurate cuts. The soft-grip handle ensures comfort and grip and helps create straight or curved lines in most tiles.

Stephen is an independent tailor with another 30 years in the industry. He specializes in kitchen tiling, walls and floors and general tiling repairs.
3. Measure and mark
If you don’t have a piece of cardboard or a contour gauge handy, you can go freestyle and just measure and mark. I just take a measurement every 20mm and mark on the tile. Then, join Marx Freehand.
This method works well, but you need to take your time, because there is no room for error. And don’t forget about the grout gap. I use a straight edge and a pencil and mark the gap on the floor (or wall), so I don’t forget where to measure.
4. Homemade hack
I’ve also used a child’s school compass as a quick way to draw curves on a template, which you can transfer to the tile. I’ve also used it to directly mark plank-style tiles. This works well with a gentle curve on the long side of an object (such as a toilet).
I usually use a pencil to mark the curve, but a felt tip can work if the pencil doesn’t work well and doesn’t stain the tile.
Step Two: Marking the Tile for Cutting
There are a few options for marking the tile so you know where to cut. This depends on the type of tile. “Use a pencil, as felt tip pens can sometimes stain certain types of tiles,” warns Stephen Russell.
Felt tips are commonly used on glazed tiles because they can be cleaned easily. “Make sure you double-check that they wipe clean first on a test tile,” adds Harriet Guedeker, interior and tiling expert. tops tiles, “As you don’t want any unsightly marks left on your brand new tiles.”
Another option is to use a tile scribe. Harriet explains, “A tile scribe can be used to gently smooth the surface of the tile where you need to cut it.
“The key is visibility without going too deep,” she notes, “too heavy scoring can lead to chipping.”

Harriet is a tile and interior specialist at Topps Tiles, with over a decade at the brand and over 15 years of experience working with home and lifestyle brands. She specializes in tiles and tile design, including layouts, color pairings and interiors trends, offering practical and stylish guidance for real homes.
Step Three: Cut the curve on the tile
Once the tile is marked there are a few options for cutting the curve. “For curved cuts, it all comes down to the shape and how tight the curve is and what the tile is made of,” advises Harriet Goodecker.
For small curves, a pair of tile nippers is usually sufficient. For larger curves, both our experts and I recommend Of the angle grinder.
Stephen Russell says, “Smooth the angle grinder through the marked line using the weight of the angle grinder; don’t use extra force.
“Keep running through the angle grinder several times, don’t cut the tile right when you start,” he adds, explaining how you need to make sure you’re using a masonry disc to cut.
Alternatively, you can use an electric tile cutter like this one Titan Electric Tile Cutter from Screwfix. This only allows straight cuts, so the technique is to cut every 10-20mm from the edge of the tile to the marked-out curve. Ideally, use a tile scribe to mark the curve, then you can snap each thin tile strand and finish with tile nippers and a metal file like this. TARIST Half Round Metal File from AmazonFor smooth edges
For smaller, more complex curves, you can use a tile saw. good for Wall tilesBut you will find that you struggle with thick floor tiles.
You may have seen some videos online of a tiler using a manual tile cutter, such as this one Vitrex Heavy Duty Tile Cutter from ToolstationTo cut a curve. I can promise you that this requires a lot of practice and is best avoided for most DIYers.
If you’re tiling a bathroom floor, you’ll need to know How many tiles will you need?. Especially if curves are cut around the toilet. Find out where to get the best deal with us Where to buy bathroom floor tiles For guidance, or, inspiration on what to buy, check out our Consider bathroom floor tile.









